He and his family are occupying the space above ours in this
unique, cliff-side perch above the Mediterranean. In a short conversation by
the cliff platforms for sea diving, Alan made a simple yet profound statement.
His words carry the weight of a man older than me in years and twenty visits to
Italy or so more experienced. Alan said, “Italy is the best kept secret
– an open air museum for the entire world.”

Traveling through southern Italy in a clunky “mini-bus” that
makes our family look like an advertisement for breeding, we have only just
begun our journey of many weeks, but already have had our breath taken away by
mountain vistas and calm seas, finding proof enough already of Alan’s
observation. Sunlight bathes everything here, including ruins from Magna
Grecia, the ancient Greek colony that once flourished throughout southern Italy.
The three Doric temples stand in Poseidonia (the Greek name) or Paestum (the
later Roman name) in stolid witness to the passage of time and the
inevitability of change, while at the same time evoking the grandeur of art and
architecture. If this sounds a bit fanciful, it’s because I can’t help getting
arrested by the beauty of the mosaic of art, architecture, topography, and
history in which we’ve emerged ourselves.

Which is just as well, because I am certainly in no danger
of arrest for my driving. I am home among crazies here, driving the tight and
unbelievably twisty Amalfi coastline in my clunky mini-bus (pronounced “mini-boos”,
but made by Mercedes, nonetheless) and finding the kid in me rushing to the
daredevil surface. If it weren’t for having the entire family on board, I’d be
even more tempted than I am to split the miniscule gaps between bikers,
scooters, motorcycles, Smart cars, tour buses, stone walls, cliff’s edges,
buildings, and guard rails at full speed (whatever that is). As it is, I am
only average on the scale of drivers here, bowing humbly to the crazier and
giving them the respect (and space) they deserve. Happily as well, I can report
that not once have I encountered even a momentary display of left-lane driving.
I am pretty sure the traffic enforcement agencies from the great
slow-driving-or-we’ll-kill-you state of Ohio would have a heart attack if they
were tasked with making the Amalfi coast more of a safe driving experience.
Thankfully, that should never happen, and one of Italy’s more enjoyable
attractions should stand the test of time as well as have its Greek Doric
temples.

How’s that for mixed metaphors?

Oh well, I don’t have to write well, I’m on vacation.